Ciao a tutti, with the Fall 2023 Menswear shows coming to an end, we take a look at one of the most notable trends of the season: grey. Often considered a dull and utilitarian shade in fashion, the men's fashion weeks in Paris and Milan were awash with the tone, showing us that grey is not always boring.
Interpretations of the shade were finished off, of course by a stun array of our favourite topic: hair and beauty.
It was grey and glam at Fendi. Traditional wool fabrics were teamed with metallics, beading and leather. Beauty had a glam rock edge with smoky eyes and wet-look hair. The contrast of matt and shine was artfully presented on the Fendi runway.
Texture and pattern in hues of grey at Fendi. A monochromatic look is complemented by a smokey purple eye with the same shade continued into the hair. Ci piace!
Zegna presented minimalist tailoring and monochromatic grey looks in a way that feels fresh. Cashmere and recycled wools were highlighted throughout the collection and made for a relaxed but rich-looking silhouette. Beauty was natural and the hair was v nonchalant with the model's natural hair texture being embraced and amplified.
Tones of grey on the Zegna runway are clean and sharp.
Fashion Editor, Anna Dello Russo, once famously put forward the idea of wearing a coat as a dress in her hit single ‘Fashion Shower’ and we love how Martine Rose presented this concept on the runway. An ankle-length charcoal grey coat dress is finished off with Wiggy curls and pencil-thin eyebrows. Pump up the volume!
A charcoal grey oversized suit is perfectly styled with a graphic tee, brown shearling mules, an 80s-looking pompadour/mullet and a wispy moustache. We salute your vision, Martine.
Miuccia and Raf Simons reworked traditional Prada staples for the Fall 2023 Menswear collection. A classic grey wool boucle coat was teamed with a 70’s style tapered collar. The hair was clipper cut and complemented the clean looks perfectly. Brava Prada.
A military-style jacket tucked into high-waisted trousers at Prada. Grey makes green pop!
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
It was industrial vibes at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. The Scottish designer showed classic grey garments with a camp “worker” twist. The oversized Baker Boy style hat is giving us full early 2000s flashbacks.
A traditional grey suit teamed with tousled, greasy hair and a sooty beauty look at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy.
Anthony Vaccarello showed grey in varying fabrications for Saint Laurent. Silhouettes were long, lean and tres chic. A grey marled knit turtleneck sweater dress provides the perfect incognito look. Hair was glossy, slicked and centre parted. A total 1920s buzz.
A grey striped floor-length coat paired with matching trousers. Saint Laurent brings the drama.
Bianca Saunders took an avant-garde approach to the suit in the opening look of her Fall 2023 collection; reworking traditionally masculine silhouettes in the tone of the season. Grey, if you need reminding.
Who needs to see when you look this good? A grey overcoat with draped detailing teamed with a feathered pageboy-esque hair look.
Scale and form were the subjects of Hed Mayner’s Fall 2023 collection. A grey shrunken jacket teamed with a pale grey asymmetric shirt and cropped ankle grazing grey trousers. So obsessed with the combed forward-slicked-down fringe which became spiked at the back of the head, it is a perfect hair pairing.
A grey oversized jacket with a grey pinstripe skirt at Hed Mayner. The micro fringe is 100% a vibe.
FENG CHEN WANG
Feng Chen Wang featured grey contrasted styles in their Fall 2023 Menswear collection, referencing the deconstructed and reconstructed effect Feng has become known for. Sculpted tendrils of hair framed the face and elevated the looks to a theatrical level.
A similar contrast style, this time in a full-length coat. Sculpted wet-look hair in a longer length adding to the eleganza of Feng Chen Wang’s collection.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
“Sophisti-rave” was Dries Van Noten’s buzzword for Fall 2023. The jackets were boxy and oversized. Trousers were loose and ravey, reminiscent of 90’s JNCO jean silhouettes. Hair was textured with short choppy fringes or long and loose. Faces were sweaty, giving a post-all-night clubbing vibe. Grey tones featured heavily throughout.
A grey peacoat gets a touch of embellishment at Dries Van Noten Fall 2023. The greasy post-rave-looking hair adds to the undoneness of the look.
For Dior Men, Kim Jones took references from Dior himself and the early work by Yves Saint-Laurent. Models were boyish with slick side parts that look almost private school-esque. Animal print was used as a nod to Yves' love of leopard print, and tones of grey added to Kim’s penchant for a minimalist streetwear aesthetic.
Kim Jones sent a slew of fisherman-inspired looks down the runway in tones of grey. Baggy knee-length shorts were inspired by Dior womenswear and looked almost skirt-like as the models walked the runway.
COMME DES GARÇON HOMME PLUS
For the Fall 2023 Comme Des Garcon Homme Plus Collection, Rei Kawakubo did what she does best. The shapes were (as always) avant-garde. Grey suiting was blazoned with text and reshaped the body. Models wore cage-like headpieces with sections of hair flattened and spiked. It was a très arty.
A padded suit in grey walks the Fall 2023 Comme Des Garcon Homme Plus Runway. Sculptural forms were continued into the hair. Erect fringes are a thing, get into it.
Officine Generale gave a romantic spin to grey, it was very Parisian. Multiple grey fabrications were layered with flouncy pastel hues which pushed that romantic vibe. Hair and beauty were minimal and natural looking.
A model walks in layered greys for Officine Generale. Hair and beauty looks were paired back.
Lastly Loewe, Jonathan Anderson focused on form and function, subverting it for his Fall 2023 menswear collection. Garments were elevated into the realm of 3D sculpture. It was a very “less is more” showing, with Anderson focusing on material and shape. Everything was stripped back including the runway. Similarly, hair and beauty were paired back and the models' faces were clean with the hair slicked back.
A silver, metal sculpted coat walks the runway for Loewe Fall 2023. The perception of grey, boring garments is flipped on its head to finish up this analysis of the Fall 2023 Menswear shows.