LIGHT TEST, 2021 A film depicting a light test of one of a subject similarly styled to the ones in the Hair Portrait series. Courtesy of the artist and Bernier-Eliades Gallery, Brussels-Athens.
Born to a hairdresser father and a wig seller mother, Martin Margiela's obsession with hair was preordained. He spent his childhood in his father's salon, fascinated with the hair littered on the salon floor. We see flirtations with it in his early works- a hair necklace, a face obscuring bang until it confidently evolves into a recurring motif in his work, following him into his practice as an artist.
There is a clear evolution in his relationship with hair. His now iconic wig dresses from his final runway show Spring 2009, made use of synthetic wigs, while his artworks are made using real hair from his brother's salon floor. Using the material in its artifice in the fashion realm and its true, greying form in his art exhibition Vanitas (2019) seems to be a fitting commentary. We track his obsession with hair (chronologically, of course!) and its continued influence on the Maison after his departure.
Spring RTW 1996 A bare chested model's long hair covers her breasts in this provocative show.
Fall RTW 1997 Fur wigs were a key accessory on the runway.
Source unknown.
Fall RTW 2000 Heavy fringes obstruct the eyes of the models.
Fall RTW 2001 Another signature of the Maison is the use of white paint, seen here as a brushstroke through the hair at eye level.
AW 2007 A model backstage with her hair spray painted to match the shoulder line of her garment.
Spring RTW 2008 A model wears a hair earring walking the runway. Little did we know that a year later the designer would be taking his final bow in the fashion world.
SS 2009 Martin Margiela's final collection surrendered completely to hair as material, loudly claiming it as a significant motif. SS09 introduced us the now iconic wig dresses, solidifying his obsession and visual language.
Spring 2012 This collection was designed by an anonymous creative team who continued the obscuring of the model's face with their own hair.
HAIR PORTRAITS, 2015-2024 - paper, vintage magazines, steel and plastic - 34 x 26,5 cm. Martin Margiela's burgeoning art practice was already underway with the ties to his favourite motif firmly intact.
SS 2016 A hair vent feature in a classic trench coat.
The Maison's diffusion line MM6 also continued the material use of hair with accessories like this Debossed-Logo Hair-Extension Barrette.
Couture AW 2017 A sudsy hair look on a model who looks like she walked out onto the runway mid shampoo.
Vanitas, 2019, Silicone and natural dyed hair. An artwork that portrays different stages of aging, from Martin Margiela's debut art show at Zeno X Gallery, Antwerp. He noted that his favourite is the last one, where the subject has accepted the natural traces of age.
LIGHT TEST, 2021 A film depicting a light test of one of a subject similarly styled to the ones in the Hair Portrait series. Courtesy of the artist and Bernier-Eliades Gallery, Brussels-Athens.
2016 Maison Margiela/ Folders. It all comes full circle with the wig dress taking it's rightful place in the Artisanal showcase which denotes the couture pieces that are considered as the foundation of the Maison's creative language.
