AN ANALYSIS OF ‘ANDROGYNY’ IN THE SPRING 2024 MENSWEAR SHOWS
‘Androgyny’ as a word has been used to define a type of gender presentation that blurs the line between characteristics that are inherently accepted as being either “masculine” or “feminine”.
The fashion and beauty industry has long used the concept of androgyny to deconstruct and analyze what these two definitions mean and present it to us in a way that proposes an alternative view of how we can present ourselves by what we choose to wear and what we decide to do when it comes to our beauty decisions.
What we can deduct from this with a particular focus on the Spring 2024 Menswear shows is that you could look fucking cool. We’ve compiled some of our favourite brands from the Spring Summer 2024 Menswear season who challenged gender norms and showed us androgyny in a way we loved.
Martine Rose's Spring 2024 Menswear collection was a subversive kinky take on men’s and womenswear with a hint of bad posture; sportswear and high-viz garb which resembled road-workers uniforms were contrasted with lace-trimmed slips and corsetry. Satin met denim and wool in relaxed silhouettes accessorised with a string of pearls.
Hair was kept natural or punctuated with a highly styled detail à la a slicked-down piece-y fringe (such a hot look) or regal-looking super glossy ringlets (trend alert!). Make-up was also kept clean and simple or amped up occasionally with an overdrawn smudgy bright lip.
For Saint Laurent Spring 2024 Menswear, Anthony Vaccarello explored the tension between tailored suiting and soft and sensual dressing. Using his Women’s Fall 2023 collection as a starting point, Vaccarello played with the “codes of masculinity” by working with traditionally female silhouettes on the male form.
Delicate satin tanks with deep décolletés, floaty halter tops, asymmetrical necklines and pussy-bow collars were contrasted with slim high-waisted trousers, belted to further cinch the waist for that elegant YSL silhouette.
Hair was polished and slicked back while beauty was kept clean. Saint Laurent gave us candle-lit romance meets chic goth. Oh, by the way, it’s the 70’s vibe that we j’adored.
Luchino Magliano’s Spring 2024 Menswear collection displayed a continuing theme within his work, a fascination with deconstructing “the male identity as we know it”.
Mirroring this concept, the collection presented relaxed and oversized garments, which decoded the usual formality of classic tailoring. Androgyny was presented in utilitarian-leaning looks that were unrestricted by gendered codes and complemented by the beauty that was paired back with hair, shaped and softly textured.
For Our Legacy Spring 2024 Menswear, Christopher Nying presented a collection inspired by the indecisiveness that comes from getting dressed when one season changes to another. Nying took familiar fall silhouettes and garments and rendered them in lightweight, breathable fabrics.
Garments were camouflaged in their materiality. This fluid idea of inter-seasonality fed into the idea of gender; the elements, from heels to trousers to skirts, were for men and women alike. Models were fresh-faced and their hair had a grungy but make it polished vibe.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s Spring 2024 Menswear collection gave us camp 17th-century elements (obsessed with the feathered hats!) in contemporary silhouettes. Ruffled collars and skirts styled with branded briefs, and sequined denim armour with a handbag, it was historical, glamorous, queer and radical all at the same time.
Beauty was “slapped” and blushed cheeks or drawn on white lines, We also saw regal ringlets making a return on the C.J.L. runway, honestly, we think we’re onto something with this trend.
Burc Akyol's debut Spring 2024 Menswear collection served body. Merging sharp tailoring with sheerness and flou.
Sexiness was presented in the idea of concealing and revealing; tops were sheer and skirts were too, waistlines grazed hips and silhouettes that softly hugged the body were offset by voluminous layering. The combination of chic tailoring and those oversized elements gave the collection a minimal yet opulent feel.
The model's natural hair was enhanced; pillowy curls, smooth natural waves, braids and cornrows, while beauty was laid bare with a soft pink lip and a touch of blush to the cheek.
Egonlab’s Spring 2024 Menswear collection proposed a concept of masculinity detached from social constraints. Tops that fell off the shoulder, low cut trousers teamed with draped barely there scarf-like halters that showed a whole lot of skin and skirt details layered over trousers. Gender norms were thrown out of the window and all the looks were so hot.
Hair was spiked up with frosted tips, we saw buzz cuts, sleazy slick backs, centre parts into smoothed styles and some boyish waves. It was an exploration of a new type of masculinity and we're here for it.
Acne Studio’s Creative director Jonny Johansson’s objective for the Spring 2024 Menswear collection “was to explore the psychology of how you change your look when you travel, how you are inspired to dress differently in order to shape a different alter ego.” For us that alter-ego was definitely an androgynous one.
Floaty printed maxi skirts and thigh-high stockings were teamed with cropped tops and knitwear that had a late 90s / early noughties feel. New Romantic meets acid rave meets eroticism in an eclectic array of styles that push the limits of gender in all forms.
Hair looked washed up with that 'morning after' texture or was hidden by a hood while beauty was splashed with painterly swipes of pinks and blues or barely there at all.