Stories Feature
MESSY TRENDS: DEATH OF THE CLEAN GIRL AESTHETIC

Kate Moss photographed by Juergen Teller.

By Helena Madonna

Whether you like it or not, last year's Brat summer birthed a new era, marking the death of 'clean girl' aesthetics. We’re in a time of trends that belong in a sweaty nightclub, the back of a taxi at 4am or at the base of a cigarette between chrome-studded acrylics. Think glam that’s been a little shaken, stirred, filthified, trodden over, fed through a wood chipper, soaked and then left out in the sun. It's the hair equivalent of torn stockings, charcoal smudged bloodshot eyes, pencil-thin brows and a fuck-it attitude.

The allure of this aesthetic is its air of nonchalance. Regardless of trends, hair should always be well cared for. Healthy hair is always hot! Ironically, the 'clean girl' trends we put our strands through, over-stretched and burnt them to the point of damage. Our tresses can be relieved from the restraints of slick black, face-lifting styles. Allow them to relax and settle into their natural patterns. Free them from the 20 step routines and watch your hair dishevel in all its glory.

BED HEAD

Woken up with hair that’s misbehaving? Perfect, you're already halfway there. Kinks, slept on roots and asymmetry are welcome and even encouraged. You can sigh with relief knowing the excessive use of heat tools or a million rollers isn't needed here. It's hair that says 'I've overslept, I'm late for my shoot!' or 'I've been partying all night', or maybe your bedhead texture nods to a different kind of late-night fun.

Hair that’s put into simple braids the night before is a good base to work with, even better if your natural texture has its own wave or curl. To mimic this, a simple kink with a straightening iron or a gentle wrap around a tong will suffice. Avoid perfection, mistakes are allowed. Spritz from roots to ends with a sea salt spray, then scrunch to encourage more texture. If fluff or flyaways emerge, let them. Finish with a dry texture wax, Kevin Murphy's Bedroom Hair is quite literally the perfect fit.

Goddess Gabriette in all her greasy glory.

GREASY ROOTS

Your initial reaction to this trend might be 'Ew!' However, it's one you're no doubt familiar with. Root melts or root shadows were popularised by 2016's grunge era, as witnessed by Tumblr. Myspace queen Sky Ferriera's signature dark lipstick with a home bleach job is the indie girl blueprint. A key element was to have your roots showing- the higher the contrast, the better. It was a statement, not a lack of maintenance.

If you're too impatient to let the blonde grow out naturally, there are a few salon techniques that can achieve this look without the wait. Foils flashed up toward the root area, rather than from it, is the perfect way to mimic regrowth. If you're after something a little softer, request a root shadow at your next salon appointment.

FRIZZ AS AN ACCESSORY

Frizz (or fluff) is what creates volume and showcases your hair’s character and texture. Although it is often avoided, without frizz, curls can fall flat or drop completely by the end of the day. Excessively layering products can suffocate your curls, weighing them down before they have a chance to form. As long as your curls and coils are cared for, frizz is not your enemy. Thanks to internet trends, curls have been expected to behave, be uniform and rigid. Try to fight the urge to tame flyaways, your curls will thank you for it.

It is still important to start your routine with wet hair, this look calls for air-kissed fluff, not completely dry. Try to keep products to a minimum- one or two creams or balms are plenty. If you prefer gel, that's fine, just don't overdo it. Apply evenly from roots to ends; a finger curl technique can be used, but it's not necessary. From here, you can diffuse or let your curls air dry. Once completely dry, flip your head upside down and coat generously with a dry texture wax.

Indie queen Sky Ferreira is the blueprint for this trend.

WRONG PART

There's no need to line a tail comb with the tip of your nose for that perfect centre part or to the arch of your brow for a 90's side part. Instead, I suggest the opposite. Messy parts are in and crisp, clean partings are out. Messy doesn’t mean 2000's zig-zag, this look calls for hair that falls naturally.

This trend complements any natural texture, whether straight, wavy, curly, or coily. The more pattern disruption, the better. Before hair dries, comb it back and away from the face, then gently push back. This will reveal where your hair naturally wants to fall. The last step is to simply let it be.

KITCHEN SCISSOR BANGS

Yes, you read that correctly. However, a fair warning before you reach into the kitchen drawers: Kitchen scissors are far too blunt for our delicate strands and will cause split ends instead of eliminating them. We want to achieve the illusion of home cut bangs while leaving it to a professional with sharp enough tools.

Request a finish that is harsh and ultra-blunt. No softening, no layering, a little thinning may be necessary, but keep it to a minimum. Suggest going as short as your hair can handle. If the result looks almost accidental, you've nailed it.

2000s alt girl and actress Shannyn Sossamon.

SOFT PUNK

A cut that pairs perfectly with banged up baggy jeans and an old, ripped tee. This trend is for those who like to look a little undone and definitely not for the faint of heart. The brief is spindly ends that look like they’ve been gnawed off by dog teeth with uneven layers and flattened roots.

Layering your products correctly is crucial, start with wet or damp hair, scrunch in a texture lotion from roots to ends. Kevin Murphy's Hair Resort or Davines' Curl Gel Oil will act as the perfect base. Leave to air dry or lightly diffuse until hair is almost dry, finish with Evo's Shebang-a-bang Dry Wax

Make up artist Isamaya Ffrench for her namesake beauty label, Isamaya Beauty.

WET LOOK: NIGHTCLUB EDITON

The wet look's best kept secret? Water-based lubricant. Support your local sex shop and stock up. Don't be shy, this look requires a generous, heavy hand. This trend leans more towards sweaty Charli XCX Boiler Room set rather than sleek red carpet glam.

At the end of a long night, their formulas are easy to wash out. Water-based lubes also provide high-shine, slick finishes minus the crunch. They're long-lasting and free from stiffness or flakiness caused by low quality gels. Strong hold and anti-frizz, this unassuming secret weapon also comes with moisturising benefits. The formula acts as a humectant (similar to glycerin), locking in hydration. However, this trend is for occasions only. Regular use can lead to product buildup, so be sure to use K18's Peptide Prep Detox Shampoo if needed.

THE LOST PINS

Not a fan of the slick back bun or polished claw clip updo? Make this mess at the back of your head somebody else's business and say 'You're welcome.' It's a look that screams day two or even three, pillow kissed and pinned at random. A beautiful pile of clips placed on vibes alone.

Although this trend is better off without a perfect step by step guide, a loose method may help. Hair that is smooth or straight can be difficult to pin down, a gentle bend with an iron or wand will provide hooks for your clips to grip. O&M's Desert Dry will be the glue needed for grit and longevity. Then choose your weapon, spare bobby pins at the bottom of your drawer, pin curl clips or even a claw clip, work with what you have on hand. Finally, give your creation a gentle shake as this will release any loose strands and complete the look.

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