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NYFW in a New York minute

Zoom in on the coolest hair and beauty looks straight from the runways of New York Fashion Week Spring 2024.

Collina Strada SS24. Photo / Vogue Runway

By Tara Young

It's the first week of the Fashion Month circuit, what are we in for? Showing Spring 2024, we're taking note of the upcoming trends for the year ahead based on what emerges from the runway, created by the industry's most prolific talents in fashion, hair, and beauty.

New York is the epicenter of trends, it doesn't get much cooler than NYC and the past week of runway shows was no exception. From viral trends such as Coquette and mermaidcore being a big feature to the 90s throwbacks, some childlike, fairytale references, and no shortage of "odes to New York". Through the metallics, sheer moments, lacey things, and leather, there were some very wearable, re-creatable looks.

We were paying attention to the finer details, get ready for our NYFW hair and beauty highlights:

The most anticipated show of the season, Peter Do's debut collection for Helmut Lang. There was a lot to like about it but a highlight for us was the sleek, gritty beauty looks.

Beauty saw an array of bold, vibrant eyeliner sharply swiped across the eyelids, and clean, dewy skin that together gave a grungy, city feel.

Hair was a reflection of 90s Helmut Lang. It was heavily gelled and greasy-looking, pulled back by accordion headbands (we've been wondering when these would appear), curls were stretched and others had tight knots and headbands made from dresses. It was all about the details.

Hair: Jawara
MU: Daniel Sallstrom

With a nod to the 90s, the minimalist aesthetic of Proenza Schouler is ticking boxes. Created by Guido, the hair is chic without trying, simple but loaded with products to achieve the look. Hand parts, low buns fastened with twine and long soft waves. It was all clean with a healthy sheen. You know we're suckers for glossy, healthy hair, especially these curls!

Hair: Guido Palau
MU: Diane Kendal

Not sure if it's the heat in NYC but the frizz is being embraced and we love to see it. Eckhaus Latta's look was brought to life by humidity and enhanced by rubbing balloons on each of the model's heads, and Oribe.

Hair: Dylan Chavles for Oribe
MU: Daniel Sallstrom

Leather slips, shredded knits, oversized blazers, deadstock lace, and repurposed leather. Coach was going for a wearable 90s aesthetic, it was a little bit rebellious with a vintage store vibe.

Hair was twisted into faux locks, side parts and flyaways were embraced. Almost like you'd just taken your motorbike helmet off, it's f*cked your hair and you're rolling with it. K bye.

Hair: Guido Palau
MU: Dame Pat McGrath

What's your go-to hairstyle when you're running out the door 10 minutes late? A bun of sorts no doubt. The look for Khaite SS24 is defined as a "downtown woman on the go", sleek yet a bit undone.

Hair for the presentation was drenched, in mousse, for a classic (can we call it that yet?) wet look which was loosely pulled up in a messy knot with some bitsy ends hanging out. Unexpected but in this instance it works.

Mousse is on the shopping list.

Hair: Guido Palau
MU: Diane Kendal

Enter the void; newcomer Grace Ling’s debut was an assured introduction to her otherworldly, architectural universe. Referencing the synergy of Modernists and Surrealists to inform a sculptural collection with her use of zero-waste 3D printing, creating metallic pieces that blend the line of art and fashion.

Hair for the show was clean and took many forms, from detached weaves, up to 60-inch extensions, and faux locks to sci-fi-feeling updos and devil horns. Beauty came in a little alien-esque with a no-brow moment and some razor-sharp contouring which elevated the overall look.

Hair: Jaylin
MU: Mai Mor

Immaculate vibes on the Lapointe sidewalk this season. Snatched high pony braids accompanied two micro braids that framed the face, finished off with a stronghold to ensure that hair was not moving. This look means business.

Hair: Joey George for Oribe
MU: Romy Soleimani

Rachel Comey's artful collection was all about colours and textures. Alongside the fashion, hairstyles brought a sense of unconventional play; some models got exaggerated kinks at the temples, while others saw their lengths transformed, teased and brushed out for a lightweight look with plenty of movement. There were a few triangular bobs that were teased and crimped that caught our attention too. The beauty look saw glowing skin, and eyes with a nude sheen, some had shimmery blue shadow, and the highlight was this chocolate brown lip. We like!

Hair: Rutger
MU: Romy Soleimani

Frizzy blown-out ends were the assignment and they nailed it. Area brings some primal instinct and drama.

Hair: Ryan Mitchell
MU: Kanako Takase

An ode to Sophia Cappola's The Virgin Suicides, Sandy Liang has the internet frothing for coquette glam.

The runway saw enchanting mermaidcore hair (it falls under the umbrella of coquette), slicked into a deep side part and dressed in hyper femme bows, ribbons, rhinestones, and rosettes, just solidifying the fact that whimsey accessories are going to be the hottest and cutest look for summer.

Hair: Evanie Frausto
MU: Jocelyn Biga

Jason Wu's slinky wet-look hair has been added to the mood board. With ethereal beachy vibes, Mermaidcore may take many different forms but the consensus is that it's still cool AF. Keen to see this look on the streets this season.

Hair: Jimmy Paul
MU: Diane Kendal

If it's one show that made us smile because the world is burning it's Collina Strada.

Equipped with clenched fists and forced smiles, Collina Strada's beautiful, diverse models took to the runway giving an elegant, chaotic energy. Hair looks were on par with hand-dyed chiffon weaved through plaits and cross-hatched braids, it was fun. Skin was sculpted with a natural glow, punky stars, and twilight beauty.

The collection was designed in "collaboration" (I guess that's what you call it) with AI. It's the future after all, why not explore it? Previous CS collections were fed into AI's beepy brain and after some back and forth and further designing, this fancy, chaotic collection was born - and then the IRL construction process began.

Hair: Evanie Frausto
MU: Fara Homidi

See, an underwater mermaid fantasy at Anna Sui! The fabrics and prints throughout the collection are a celebration of the sea. Smooth, defined waves and barrel curls bring long hair to life complemented by a dreamy, muted technicolor eye.

Hair: Garren of R+Co
MU: Dame Pat McGrath

Definitely the most Balletcore show of the week with Christian Siriano's inspiration literally being ballet; from the sugarplum fairies to the excitement of being backstage. It was an opulent show of fantasy and Kesha, Avril Lavigne, and Alicia Silverstone were sitting front row.

The modern ballerina models wore their hair as smooth as glass with blush ribbon added to the underlayers, or as a “braided corset,” featuring two Dutch braids with ribbon looped through them, a nod to the corset ballgown silhouettes in the collection.

Hair: Lacy Redway
MU: Charlotte Tilbury

Palomo Spain took us to a discreet enchanted garden overrun with snaking vines and plush roses; a wink to gay cruising culture. Models took to the runway at a slow and sultry pace, many locking eyes suggestively with audience members.

Hair was sleek and pulled away from the face which allowed attention to be drawn to the sparkling pink embellished roses. There were loop ponytails to braids, peek-a-boo red panels were a cool nod to the ‘90s while the rest of the looks highlighted natural texture.

Hair: Sarah Lund for Kevin Murphy
MU: Marcelo Gutierrez

The slick half-pony's with a center parting caught our eye at Priscavera, it's the best of both worlds and super easy to replicate.

Sleek and shiny at the front and all-natural at the back. It adds a little volume up top and the best bit, it's a fun style to load up with cute accessories! Bows, barrettes, headbands, statement earrings, go for it.

Hair: Evanie Frausto
MU: Susie Sobol

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