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EYE WITNESS: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2023

Surrealism and major masterful moments, Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2023 sets the tone in hair and beauty for the season ahead.

Thom Browne

By Tara Young

Couture shows awaken a sense of wonder in the haze of winter, and if there's one thing we can afford to take away from Haute Couture Fashion Week it's hair and makeup. While not overtly drawing your eye away from the intricacies and precise detail of the garments, the accompanying hair and beauty looks deserve recognition. We turn our focus to the moments of fresh inspiration that made us take a second glance.

Otherworldly, frothy and sculptural are just a few words to describe Daniel Roseberry's singular approach to couture. This season; surrealism, organic shapes and painterly details rang true to the essence of Schiaparelli couture, the inversion of the signature tone of Schiaparelli gold to Yves Klein Blue was a highlight. Hair was minimised by cornrows or sleek styles covered by black headbands while barely there makeup softly highlighted each model's natural features.

Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath

Jean Paul Gaultier
A haute couture laurel wreath brings a statuesque neo-classical feeling to the Jean Paul Gaultier presentation designed by Julien Dossena of Paco Rabanne. Hair was parted down the centre and cascaded down the back of the neck like a waterfall, acting as a smooth canvas to accompany the sculptural headpieces. While makeup gave us an effortless glam with a muted deep red lip and subtly highlighted smoky eye.

Hair: Duffy
Makeup: Pat McGrath

Christian Dior
Exploring simplicity alongside a showcase of female strength, Maria Grazia Chiuri brought Greek and Roman antiquity into 2023. An undeniably pristine example of skilled craftsmanship in all aspects. The hair caught our attention, either immaculately braided or smooth like glass and shaped into an exaggerated teardrop shape at the nape of the neck. Makeup was kept natural with skin dewy and flawless.

Hair: Guido
Makeup: Peter Philips

Thom Browne
Thom Browne marked their 20th anniversary by debuting a couture presentation that took place in a historic 19th-century Baroque opera house, watched on by 2000 identical grayscale 2D faces on velvet seats.

Taking inspiration from a bustling railway station amongst a sea of grey, models wore symbolic bell helmets and animal headsets, some were bandaged up, their faces wrapped by silk gauze offset by a neon fantasy splashed over their faces. Asymmetric wigs were as high as the heavens, in windswept grey bouffants and askew bobs that were falling from the head.

Hair: Eugene Souleiman
Makeup: Isamaya Ffrench

Armani Privé
A rose-tinted show rang true for Giorgio Armani’s fall Privé couture collection; everything from lustrous fabrics, flourishing decorations and no shortage of handsewn crystals and beadwork giving an old Hollywood glam. The highlight for us was these intricate rosette-braided buns that swirled across the models' heads with a velvety red lip, so 90s.

The aesthetic is draped and wrapped - an almost 90s minimalist vibe with echoes of the statues of ancient Rome, that provide an organic canvas for their ornate jewels. It was v luxurious. Hair was slicked back; it was high gloss and lacquered in fluid shapes. Like most collections, faces were kept clean and fresh with little eye makeup and just a dab of colour across the lip.

Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Peter Philips

Nonchalantly strolling down the pink and purple cobblestones next to the Seine in block-heel Mary Janes. Whimsy ruffles, tweed suits and baskets full of flowers. Virginie Viard is faithful to inimitable French beauty; unstyled hair and au naturel makeup. This whimsy ballet bun captures the perfectly imperfect tone of the show.

Hair: Damien Boissinot
Makeup: Christelle Cocquet

A dreamy couture fantasy, somebody pinch me. Layering textures, bold colours and dangling sparkly accessories; Valentino's elaborately simple couture reached peak glamour and we're quietly gagging for it. Of course, a cloud of curls will stop us in our tracks too, I'm feeling a summer of soft, voluminous curls paired with statement earrings and glowing skin.

HMU: Valentino Beauty

Rhinestone and chainmail dreads fell to the model's hips, a knight in bedazzled couture.

Quintessentially couture in the most Demna way possible. From structured tailoring to exaggerated details that could be missed if you blinked, it was a little goth and a lot of glamour. Hair was cool, each model had their own look; from ultra-sleek middle parts and sleazy gelled fringes to curly mops and mohawks. This couture wet look caught our eye, rich and grungy, load up your hair with gel, put on some opera gloves, a sparkly dress and turn your regrowth in a LOOK.

Giambattista Valli
Fluid, billowing, flou drapery, structured crinolines, as always a Giambattista Valli showcase is frivolous and joyful. Each dress has a personality and each model became part of it. Gelled waves flowed across the hairline creating an dramatic face-framing effect with lightly teased ponytails that fell behind, and cropped pixie cuts were dolled up with doe-eyes for a mod flair.
Hair: Pier Paolo Lai
Makeup: Karin Westerlund

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