More is more and excess is in but have we reached our peak? How much is too much?
You have to admit, after covid, the world of fashion got exciting again – out went minimalism; away with athleisure, house outfits, and slippers and in came the chaos, with a camp sensibility; Y2K nostalgia, Paris Hilton, thrifting, bold colours, rainbow hair, embellishments, accessory overload, clashing patterns, high/low; a total expression of liberation in a post-covid world.
This season, the ongoing social commentary that is fashion sees designers conceptualizing themes such as; recession reality, excess, fame and obsession, money, escapism and playfulness, there was a retrospective glance and sustainability efforts with Balenciaga’s new Re-Sell program – and London saw the passing of Queen Elizabeth II, which caused some shows to be cancelled out of respect for the national mourning period.
But the show must go on; to Milan and on to Paris, kiss kiss.
As always, Simone Rocha’s luxurious fairytale tulle extravaganzas flooded our feeds, models fell to the floor at the entrance of the AVAVAV runway, double-time twinning at both Gucci and Sunnei whose show was about how fashion distorts "the sense of self into multiple, often illusory and fractured representations", Jeremy Scott literally blowing up for Moschino with global inflation being top of mind, and Matty Bovan shared a joyous explosion of colour and print.
How can you not love the revolving circuit of fashion weeks and the theatrics that surround it? It’s a feast of fantasy for your eyes, it’s escapism and inspiration for the season ahead. While looks may well be loaned, the show outside the show is usually a sight to behold too, flooded with influencers, media and models swanning about in current season looks, or the most extra outfit they can pull together for the occasion. More, more, more.
With all the maximalism, big ideas and main character energy there's a flipside, that 90s cool; soft tailoring, functional luxury and minimalism. It’s never not there when you need a breather from the overriding excess and thank goodness there is no shortage of it. It’s Kate Moss slinking along the runway in a leather 'norm core' look at Bottega or Bella Hadid walking through the rain holding an umbrella at Jil Sander – click to refresh, and breathe.